Today’s technique is a cool little trick to add a nice clean finish to those facings.
I saw this technique on the Threads website originally and thought I’d give it a go because I reckon it looks much cleaner and more professional looking than zig zagging the raw edges of the facing/interfacing. Here’s how it goes.
Sew the front facing and back facing (fashion fabric) right sides together, as you usually would. Do the same for the interfacing pieces.
Pin the interfacing unit to the fashion fabric facing unit around the outside edges, making sure that the glue side of the interfacing is facing towards you.
Sew 1/4 inch or 0.6cm from raw edge all the way around the outside of the facing. Grade the interfacing seam allowance slightly longer than the fashion fabric seam allowance – this helps you to roll the fabric (you’ll do this in a moment).
Now comes the tricky part. Press the seam open using ONLY the tip of the iron and being careful not to press the glue side of the interfacing (this is obviously not a problem if you’re using a non-fusible interfacing)
If you’re the observant type, you’ll see that I forgot to grade the interfacing longer than the fashion fabric…oopsa.
The curves in the back facing can be annoying at best, and a professional tailor’s point presser would be fab here, but I don’t have one. I use a wooden spoon instead! I just insert the spoon end into the curve and press the seam flat that way – free and functional – like!
After you’re finished with your pressing ordeal, turn the thing right side out and roll the fashion fabric slightly towards the interfacing – this will create a nice clean finish on the outside of the facing. Now, press the interfacing to the fashion fabric using the whole iron.
And the outside!
A bit of fussing, but I think it’s worth it for the finish you get! Another important thing to remember is to always use high quality interfacing – life’s too short for Vilene. Besides, it wears out in the wash. I used a high quality woven interfacing called Whisper Weft that fuses at the touch of an iron and never wrinkles/bubbles. It’s not the cheapest, but it works well and washes great. That’s enough for me. This also works even more beautifully with silk organza and you don’t get the fuss of pressing the seam open with a fusible on one side!
Relax and Enjoy,