My Not-So-Little Black Dress

Hey dear readers!

I’ve been a busy bee lately beavering away in my sewing room on my latest Project Blossom creation.  If you recall, the plan was to make this

Vogue 1182_plan

But I made a muslin and it was ho hum, so I decided to change my mind and go with this beauty from BurdaStyle

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The lines are just so lovely on this dress and it’s got a real classy/elegant feel that I’m hopelessly attracted to.  So, I just did it.

I wanted to underline the bodice so I could have something to anchor my catch stitches to.  I find when you catch stitch the seam allowances to an underlining it gives the bodice a beautiful structure you wouldn’t get by just lining.  For underlining tips, see my Technique of the Week here.  I also made the seam allowance on the V-neckline a bit longer (maybe 5cm or so) and folded it back as a ‘facing’ and catch stitched it to the underlining.

Problem is, fabric is stretch, so I needed a stretch underlining.  Fortunately, I had some black stretch fabric from my lingerie making endeavours that was lightweight enough not to add extra thickness to my already weighty cotton sateen.  Here’s the bodice all catch stitched up!

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I’ve been having some flip flops in my head about adding sleeves or not…I want the dress to be versatile  but I (and others) just LOVE those distinctive pleated sleeves!  Agree, yes?

An awesome sewing buddy on the The Sewing Forum convinced me when replying to my comment that I wanted to put the dress under a blazer if need be, and I thought the sleeves would get in the way (the whole versatility thing).  She replied with “Screw the blazer  go for GLAM!”

YES MA’AM!

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It’s precariously pinned on, but it’s love.

So, I furiously attached the skirt and hand picked the zip (for a tutorial see Technique of the Week here)

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I think I’m getting better at forming that ‘dome‘.  It takes practice though…gettin’ there.

After setting in the sleeves, here it is on Lola!  The grey bit on the neck is dodgy duct tape on Lola, not an inset (LOL).  I really need to get a professional dress form for these things, so if anyone has any leads…I’d appreciate it!

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All she needs now is a hem and a line!  I’ve decided to keep the lining jobs on this dress and my Cambina until after the photoshoot…since they take lots of time that I really don’t have :P

But when I need to, does anyone know what kind of stretch lining would be best?  Ideas?  Ideas?

OK, back to my silk chiffon blouse…

Vogue 8772 and BS 125a_plan

Relax and Enjoy,

Kat

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12 responses on “My Not-So-Little Black Dress

  1. Looking lovely, especially that zip! I’ll study that tutorial very soon :) And I can’t wait to see those burda pants come to life, I love them!

    • You’re welcome, Emily! Glad you liked the tute and hope you can try a hand picked zip at some point :)

  2. I have been lusting – er, looking – at that same dress pattern for a while now. You’ve convinced me that I should make it. I have made the blouse pattern, and I really like it. A classic garment that looks different each time I make it.

    • Oh yay…it is lust-worthy, isn’t it. I haven’t tried the blouse yet, but *you’ve* inspired me to try it too! God, I love the sewing blogosphere! Thanks! :)

  3. Pingback: Liebster Award | tailorfairy·

  4. i’m not sure i’d put a lining in the dress since it’s already underlined. try it on in front of a mirror and see if there’s enough body to hang nicely.

    • I know what you mean and I’ve been thinking along the same lines myself. However, my catch stitches are too much of a liability. Perhaps I should only use facings and fell stitch them on?

  5. Definitely the right decision re the sleeves! And that dome…looking very professional! I’m going to try a hand picked zip on my current WIP…have bookmarked your tutorial (thank you!) and been reading up with Claire Schaeffer…

    • Thanks for the dome complement! I look forward to hear how your zip turns out! I know Claire bastes her zip in before she pick stitches, but SK didn’t and only pinned. That’s the great thing about sewing, though, as many ways to do things as there are sewers!

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