Hey dear readers!
I’ve decided to attempt my first Colette pattern! YES, I know. I haven’t done a Colette pattern yet. I have the book and it’s so pretty and I just love to look at it all the time…and I haven’t done a pattern from it yet. Since I can’t imagine myself in the Taffy blouse, I’m trying the Jasmine.
This was the first Colette pattern I was ever attracted too…and the Clover…I bought that one too! As an Aussie (I got my PR!) I’m used to not having access to American patterns or waiting weeks and weeks for them to arrive, but thanks to the GREAT service at Sew Squirrel, I didn’t have to. She had super fast delivery and nice personalized service. Do check her out for all your pattern needs! She stocks all the cool indie designers!
Anywho, I thought I’d whip this into a muslin real quick. Front and back only. No worries.
The front was fairly straight forward. I only had to lower the dart by 2cm to point to my bust apex (I used this tutorial to properly do it and it was great!)
I also pinched out 3 cm or so in the front, tapering to nothing at the hem. Of course, this changed the neckline and totally frumped up the blouse, so I lowered it and curved it a bit. This was all done on the muslin whilst on me. Purple lines are the new pattern and blue lines are the original pattern lines.
The back, on the other hand, was a complete bias clad NIGHTMARE. The ‘shaping’ in the back was hideous on me and bunched at both the upper and lower back. No matter how much I pinched, prodded, and made muslin after muslin I could not get it to look good. So, with 1.5m of muslin left, I got desperate.
“Screw it”, I thought, and made the back 90 degrees to the hem and started from scratch. I put the muslin on Lola and found that the back shaping fell nicely into place with two diamond shaped back darts and a straight back seam. BUT, the back neck was also gaping something fantastic. Neck darts it was. Each dart is 2cm wide with a length of 10cm. This again was guess and test….with a lot of topless sewing going on
Again, purple lines are the new pattern, and blue lines are the original.
Now that the neckline had *completely* changed, I had to redraft the collar.
I measured the width of the original collar minus the seam allowances (which turned out conveniently to be 4cm) and just drew this on the pattern (don’t forget, we also added a back dart, so you need to fold that out on the paper before you draft the collar (just like you would if you sewed it). Grain line for the front collar is parallel to the length/shorten line (which is 45 degrees to the grain line of the pattern piece) and grain line of the back pattern piece is the fold which is straight (convenient as!)
Seriously, you have no idea how I struggled with this pattern to get to this point. It seems like it fits some folks like magic right out of the package, but others really struggle.
I’m posting this in the hope that it helps someone out there who is/will struggle like me. I learned a lot through this process though, which goes to show that you learn more from your foibles than from your successes!
Now, the plan is to make it up in a light weight fabric to test out my alterations…wish me luck
Have you made the Jasmine before? Or any other Colette pattern for that matter and had fitting issues? Let me know, I always like knowing I’m not alone in this stuff…and who knows who you’ll help!!
Relax and Enjoy,