I’ve got a fever….and the only prescription…is a couture dress!!!
That’s right, I’ve had a fever for some serious construction, readers. And I found the *perfect* excuse!
Yes, BELINDA’S COMING TO PERTH AND I’VE GOT TIX!!!! Yes, I am a Belinda fan..unashamedly! I’ve already downloaded the best of in preparation. But that’s not enough…
I need a new dress. Obviously.
And I love this…from BurdaStyle, of course. Download it here
What I love about this:
- halter neckline
- long skirt with lettucy hem
- draped and gathered bodice
But when I looked at the pattern layout, the most complex pieces were the 4 pattern pieces that made up the strapless bodice..
Then I thought….
I CAN DRAFT THAT!!!!!!
So, I did
I first transferred my side dart to the waist.
Then drew a princess line to the middle of the shoulder (two separate pattern pieces are in red). I then drew a strapless neckline (in green) and then cut out my pieces. I did a similar procedure for the back.
These are what the finished pattern pieces looked like (also make sure to add matching notches!)
I then made up a muslin and added very generous 4cm seam allowances on the neckline so that I could manipulate it during the fitting. I added some boning to the left side, but not the right…see the difference?
After I had firmed up the fit (took a lot out of the side seams and a few of the darts), I transferred the changes to my paper pattern and cut the real thing.
I wanted the base layer of the dress to be quite firm, so I chose a firm calico (the same used to make my muslin btw). I made boning channels out of bias cut muslin (1″ strips)
All in all, I made a boning channel on every seam and one up the side front.
I used Rigilene for my boning. I know some people hate it, but I find that if I put it in a casing it behaves fine. I wouldn’t sew it directly to the fabric, but you can.
One tip is to singe the ends with a lighter to fuse the nylon cords together so they don’t poke out later and pinch you!
I also didn’t want to wear a strapless bra with this, who likes those things anyway!!! So, I made some homemade cups to go in the boobie parts.
For this I used quilting batting (cotton) with some weft interfacing for support
I basically traced it out from my pattern so that it would go all the way to the top of the bodice to pad and reinforce the neckline nicely. Here’s what the pattern looks like
I cut these out and fused the interfacing on.
The pattern for the cups has NO seam allowances to reduce bulk. Therefore, I sewed the two halves together using a zig zag stitch.
The final product looks like so!
I pinned these to the bodice and then did a running stitch about 0.5cm from the top to hold them in. I also catch stitched them to the CF seam
I just tacked the bottom of the cup to the SF seam allowance of the bodice.
There! Nice soft support!
I then folded over the top seam allowances (a generous 3cm) and catch stitched them to the bodice. I pinned in a halter strap, so you can see what it will look like, although the strap will be in the fashion fabric
Sorry about Lola, she’s got two types of duct tape on her…I really need to get a better display dummy!
So, here it is on me!
Well, I’m thoroughly satisfied now!
OH wait, you say….what’s the fashion fabric???!! Well, I found this beaut at Darn Cheap Fabrics here in Oz (added bonus). She’s 100% rayon, which I thought the flowy nature of the long circle skirt would benefit from.
Perfect for a summer concert…and summer rain!
Looking forward to bodice draping! Will update you with the deets!
Have you ever draped fabric on a bodice before? Any hints for someone who’s never done it before?
Relax and Enjoy,